Welcome to Rob's Journeys Web Site

Pakistan 2006

Pakistan                   

Hindu Kush Adventure       September 28th to October 13th 2006   This was a trip with Wild Frontiers

 

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Day 1     Left London in the evening for the overnight flight to Islamabad

Day 2    Arrived early in the morning and drove along the Grand Trunk Road to Peshawar.  We stopped at Attock Bridge to see Akbar's Fort before arriving at the Khan Klub in Peshawar.  After lunch we visited the bazaar and the Mahabat Khan Mosque for Friday Prayers.

Women washing beside

the river indus

Mary chatting

to shopkeepers

Selling snacks

 

Inside the Mahabat Khan

Mosque, Peshawar

Decoration inside the

Mahabat Khan Mosque,

Peshawar

Fiday prayers at the

Mahabat Khan Mosque

 

Day 3    During the morning we visited the Museum, Carpet shop and Book shop while after lunch we visited a Truck Painting Yard. Our evening meal was in an Afghan Restaurant, after which we watched cricket being played in one of Peshawar's main highways.

In the bazaar, Peshawar

Dried fruit seller,

Peshawar

Selling cheese in

the street, Peshawar

Truck Painting, Peshawar

 

Our Kebabs

Painting in the wheel arch

of a truck

Alison and Rob at the

Afgan Restaurant,

Peshawar

Playng cricket in the road

outside the Khan Klub,

Peshawar

Amanda, Anne and Mary

at the Afgan Restaurant,

Peshawar

 

 

Day 4    Leaving early we made our way to the railway station to board the Khyber Steam Safari.  The journey past through outlying villages of Peshawar and across the International Airport Runway.  After 34 tunnels and over 92 bridges we arrived at Landi Kotal having traveled for four hours.  At the Michni Post we were only a few miles from the Durand line forming the Afgan border.  After lunch in the Khyber Rifles Officers' Mess we returned to Peshawar. 

Khyber Steam Train

preparing to leave

Peshawar station

Train passing through the

outskirts of Peshawar

Khyber Steam Train

preparing to leave

Peshawar station

Rob on the train

 

Train passing through the

outskirts of Peshawar

 

Some of the party

waiting for departure

 

Train crossing the

International Airport

main runway

Hangers on!

Pipe Band on

Jamrud Platform

 

Ticket office.

 

Village in the

Kabul Valley

The road up the pass

and one of many forts

Some of our police guard

 

 

At one of the switchbacks,

gaining height on a steep

part of the track

Another of the 34 tunnels

Khyber Rifle Officers

 

 

 

Looking towards the Afgan

Border from Michni Post

with the border town of

Torkham in the valley

 

 

 

Rob at the Michni Post

 

 

Tree placed under arrest

for moving by officers

after a night out!

A group photograph at

Michni Post looking

towards the Afgan border

 

 

Day 5    To-day we left for Dir.  Traveling northwards we passed through agricultural land before climbing up into the foot hills of the Hindu Kush.  Before crossing the Malakand Pass we stopped to view the Gandharean Buddist Monastery at Takht-i-Bhai.  After lunch beside the Swat River we crossed the river at Chakdara where we could see Churchill's Picket, where Winston spent a few months in 1896.  We arrived in Dir in the late afternoon.

Buddist Monastry at

Takht-e-Bhai

 

Walking up to the

Gandharen Monastry

at Takht-e-Bhai

Buddist nitch at

Takht-e-Bhai

 

 

Buddist Monastry at

Takht-e-Bhai

 

Zafir choosing fruit

for our lunch

 

Buddist Monastry at

Takht-e-Bhai

Cattle grazing at

lunch stop

 

Lunch stop by River Swat

Transporter across the

River Swat

Transporter across

the River Swat

The Swat River

 

Churchill's Picket,

Damkot Hill, Chakdora

 

Day 6    In Dir we met the Jeeps which were to take us over the Lowari Pass(3118m).  After negotiating the many hair pin bends we reached Naghar for lunch in the gardens of the fort.  Continuing up the Chitral River we reached Ayun for the night.  The guest house has wonderful views of Tirich Mir(7690m)

Village above Dir

 

The new rail tunnel being

built below the Lowari Pass

The road up to the

Lowari Pass

The road up to the

Lowari Pass

Jeeps at the

Lowari Pass

 

The road up to the

Lowari Pass

 

Not the only one

needing refreshment

 

Drinking Green Tea

Washing up

The road up to the

Lowari Pass

The road down from the

Lowari Pass

 

Approaching the Chaikana at

the top of the Lowari Pass

 

Alison and Amanda getting

a better view

 

The Chitral River

Near the top of the

Lowari Pass

Crossing the river at

Naga Fort

 

The Chitral river

Crossing the river at

Naga Fort

The Chitral River

Typical Road Surface

 

Bridge over the

Chitral River

 

The Chitral River

 

 

Cultivation besides the

Chitral River

Arriving in Ayun

 

Sun setting on Tirich Mir

 

 

Khushamdul-Muick or

Kushi. Son of the final

Mehtar of Chitral.

Evening sun on the

mountain range bordering

the Chitral River

 

Day 7    In the morning we had an interesting walk around Ayun before making our way up to the Kalash valley of Rumbur and the village of Balanguru.  A short walk in the afternoon gave us an insight into the interesting sights of the next few days.

Tirich Mir

 

 

Tirich Mir

 

Hillside - Ayun

 

 

Tirich Mir

 

 

Old building in Ayun

 

Baboo

 

 

The Ayun River

 

 

Bringing in the Harvest

 

Ayun Castle Guesthouse

 

 

Ayun women

 

 

Driving up the

Rumbar Valley

 

Entering the

Rumbar Valley

 

The Rumbar Valley

 

 

Kalasha Children

 

The new Hydro-electric

Plant

 

Kalasha girl

 

 

Flour Mill driven by water

 

Kalasha Young lady

 

 

Kalasha lady weaving

 

 

Corner of the sacred altar

 

Drying the fruit

 

 

Kitchen

 

 

The sacred altar

 

Wooden carvings at the

altar site

 

Young Kalasha lady

 

 

Typical way to cook

 

Boy carying basket

 

 

 

Day 8    We walked up the valley the next morning to the Nuristani village of Shakanande was delightful.  The weather was glorious and the local people friendly.  We spent some time with a Kalasha family high up on the hillside before retuning to Balanguru.

The School in Balanguru

 

 

The Rumbar Valley

 

The Sacred Wood

 

 

 

 

 

The Nuristani village of

Shaikhanandeh

 

Looking up the Rumbur

valley towards the

Afganistan border

Corn growing near

Shaikhanandeh

 

The Kalash valley

Mountains above

Shaikhanandeh

The Mosque in the

Nuristani village of

Shaikhanandeh

Rob

 

 

Mary

 

Mary

 

 

Grandmother and twin

 

 

View from the house

 

Grandmother and twin

 

 

Kalasha mother

 

 

Walnuts drying

 

Kalash family in Revalik

 

 

Kalash hillside

 

 

Side valley of the Rumbur

 

Kalash valley

 

 

Rob, Kalash Valley

 

 

Kalasha girls

 

Kalasha girl

 

 

 

Day 9    A stiff walk was ahead of us to-day as we made our way up the mountain side to the Wild Frontiers Hideaway.  This hut with two rooms and a verandah was to be our home for the night.  A family near by cooked us our meal and we talked and danced before climbing into sleeping bags and sleeping on charpoys on the verandah. 

Looking back

 

 

The group

 

Walking up to the hut

 

 

Saifuller

 

 

Kalasha girl

 

Kalasha girl carrying grapes

 

 

Walking up to the hut

 

 

Aqueduct

 

Aqueduct

 

 

Looking out from the

Guest Hut

 

Upper Rumbur valley views

 

 

Upper Rumbur valley views

 

 

Upper Rumbur valley views

 

 

Two Kalasha girls taking

an evening walk

 

Upper Rumbur valley views

 

 

Evening view from the hut

 

 

View late at night

 

Saifuller and friends

 

 

 

Day 10    Back down the mountainside in the morning was easy and we then made our way to Chitral.  We visited the historical Fort and spent time in the shops hunting for bargains. 

Looking out from my

charpoi on the veranda

of the guest hut

Mountain range between

Ayun and Chitral

 

Wild Frontiers Guest Hut

in the Upper Rumbur valley

 

Kalasha girl spinning

 

 

Driving to Chitral

 

Tirich Mir

 

 

The Chitral River

 

 

Tirich Mir from Chitral

 

Shahi Masjid Mosque

Chitral

 

Water tower - Chitral Fort

 

 

Chitral Fort - canon

 

Chitral Fort

 

 

 

Day 11    An easy day to-day before going to Chitral Gol to see the Markhor wild goats as they came down to the river to drink.  The night was spent at the Hindu Kush Heights Hotel.

Markhor in Chitral Gol

 

 

Markhor in Chitral Gol

 

Markhor in Chitral Gol

 

 

 

Day 12    After a late start we made our way up the Chitral Valley and across to Mastuj.  In the evening we had an enjoyable meal with Col. Khushwalqlt Ul Mulk, son of the last great Mehtar.

Early morning view of

Chitral Valley from

Hindu Kush Heights Hotel

The road to Mastuj

 

Roof of Hindu Kush heights

Hotel and the Chitral Valley

 

The road to Mastuj

 

 

The road to Mastuj

 

The road to Mastuj

 

 

The road to Mastuj

 

 

Mastuj in the far distance

 

The road to Mastuj

 

 

Mufti with the Colonel,

Mastuj

 

Mastuj Fort

 

Mastuj Fort

 

 

 

Day 13    To day we set off for the Shandur Pass and Phandur.  The scenery is very dramatic as you approach the Pass at 3735m.  The Polo Ground at the Pass is world famous for the festival once a year.  We had lunch at the pass before continuing to Phandur.  We went fishing and had a log fire in the evening.

Trafic holdup

 

 

On the way to the

Shandur Pass

 

Autumn colours on the way

to the Shandur Pass

 

On the way to the

Shandur Pass

 

Lake at the Shandur Pass

 

On the way to the

Shandur Pass

 

Reflections - Shandur Pass

 

 

Polo Ground at the

Shandur Pass

 

Reflections - Shandur Pass

 

 

Shandur Pass

 

 

Picnic Spot

 

Driving away from the Pass

 

 

Mufti unloading the jeep

 

 

Driving to Phandur

 

Driving to Phandur

 

 

Rob's Catch

 

 

Round the Lake at Phandur

 

Phandur Lake

 

 

 

Day 14    Early next morning we set off with our new jeeps for Gilgit and Karimabad.  We stopped in Gilgit to visit the British Cemetery where a number of the key figures in the "Great Game" are remembered.  We lunched looking up at Rakaposhi Mountain.  Eagle's Nest Hotel was delightful.

Petroglyphs beside the road

on the way to Gilgit

 

Petroglyphs beside the road

on the way to Gilgit

 

Petroglyphs beside the road

on the way to Gilgit

 

Road to Gilgit

 

 

Road to Gilgit

 

Road to Gilgit

 

 

Memorial to George

Hayward in the British

Cemetry in Gilgit

 

The bridge over the Hunza

River goes straight into a

short, dark and

twisting tunnel.

The Hunza River

 

 

 

Driving up the KKH

(Karakoram Highway)

 

Sunset from Eagle's Nest,

Duikar above Karimabad

 

A first sighting of

Rakaposhi

 

 

Day 15        Up early to see the sun rise and then a walk down into Karimabad, back for lunch and then another walk in the afternoon.

Rob

 

 

Balti Fort, Karimabad

 

Rakaposhi at Sunrise

from Eagle's Nest

 

Karimabad main street

with one of the Jeeps

 

Stan lighting an

incense stick

 

Walking down to

Karimabad from

Eagle's Nest

An Hazrat Abbas shrine

with prayer flags in the

mountains above Duikar

Above Duikar, Karimabad

 

Looking back down the

Hunza valley from

high above Duikar

Rob after a great walk,

Eagles Nest view point

 

Rakaposhi at sunset

 

Spantik and the

Karakoram Range

 

 

Day 16    Again early morning sun rise photos before making our way to visit Balti Fort.  We then drove back to Gilgit stopping on the way to search for Garnets.  I left the group at Gilgit as they made their way on to Chilas for the night as their flight to Islamabad was cancelled.

Early sun on the

Karakoram Range

 

Lady's Finger and Hunza

Peak at first light

 

Early sun on the

Karakoram Range

 

Sun Rise on the

Karakoram Range

 

Rakaposhi

 

Lady's Finger and

Hunza Peak

 

Rakaposhi

 

 

Eagle's Nest Hotel

 

Walking up to the

Balti Fort

 

Side of Balti Fort

 

 

Balti Fort Entrance Ticket

 

Karimabad from Balti Fort

 

 

Balti Fort with Ultar Peaks

 

 

Rakaposhi from Balti Fort

 

The Mir's Summer

Reception Room Balti Fort

 

 

To view the Deosai Trip web page please click HERE

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